I saw a picture of a granny square ornament a few weeks back and thought - I can do that! I took some extra yarn to a show and tried it. The individual pics are wip before they were fully finished. It's just two small granny squares sewn together and pulled tight at the top.


Which is your favorite?




This is leftover from my Ziggy Stardust Sweater




This is leftover from a blanket I made a few years ago




This is from a shawl I made years ago

This Saturday is Small Business Saturday and I will be with 100+ other small business owners on the Avenue in White Marsh. Please come out and see us if you're local! It's a chance to get out and walk off some of that turkey while finding some great holiday gifts. I designed and made this sweater over two shows. It's actually pretty similar to the Birthday Sweater I made a few years ago. Since I was designing and making at a show, I didn't write anything down so no pattern. This is Miss Babs Big Silk Yarn which is a worsted weight yarn. One skein of Ziggy Stardust and 2 of Moss.


All of the stitches in the moss is the lemon peal stitch - one single crochet followed by a double crochet. In the alternating rows you are double crocheting in the single crochet and single crocheting in the double crochet. The Ziggy Stardust is mostly half double crochets. The exception is the edging on the collar and pockets which is 4 half double crochet in each stitch.




Big Silk is one of my favorite Miss Babs yarn for winter. It's super soft and its really warm at the same time.




I made the sleeves slightly shorter because my experience they will stretch a bit with wear.

I've said it in the past, but many of my patterns now start with me looking through a book of various stitches, picking one, and then designing a sweater around that. This sweater uses the maple fans stitch found in The New Crochet Stitch Dictionary by Nele Braas and Eveline Hetty-Brown. I found a used copy that I've been perusing a lot recently. If you can find a copy and like to look at stitches, I'd highly recommend it. I did modify the stitch a bit to be double crochets instead of trebles to make the holes a little smaller.

I made this sweater mostly during Colorfest a few weeks ago. It was definitely an emergent design as I was in between people being in my booth that day. The yarn is Worsted Tweed by American Ewe Yarn in Glass of Port. I had 3 skeins of yarn and I used almost all of it. Each skein is 237 yards and it is a worsted weight tweed. Obviously this sweater has some larger holes in it so it definitely needs a shirt under it, but despite that it is really warm.






This pattern uses a 5.5 mm yarn

Stitches:

ch - chain
sk st
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
dc2tog - 2 double crochet into the same stitch and crocheted together

Front and back panels (make 2). Cast on in multiples of 4 + 2
I cast on 58
Row 1: sc all the way across
Row 2: ch 5 (counts as dc + 2 ch), dc2tog in the starting stitch, sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch, * sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across end with a dc
Row 3: ch 3, * dc2tog in the midle of the 3 chains, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach your desired length. I had 18 rows.






Stitch the two panels together leaving approximately 8 inches for the arms and neck. I decided that I wanted the V's facing up, but you could do either up or down. Make sure your panels are facing the same direction though.

For the neck add a row of sc around the collar.

For the sleeves pick up 10 V's.
Row 1: ch 3, dc in the starting stitch, sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch, * sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across slip stitch to join

Row 2: ch 3, * dc2tog in the midle of the 3 chains, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across slip stitch to join

I made the sleeves 10 rows long.

This is my second poncho made with a Fusion 1000 kit from Cat Mountain Fiber Arts. These come as a kit with 10 different yarns of a similar color but different textures. This one is blacks and greys and I used almost all of it.

I wanted something that would match a lot of things, but that I could also wear at work.

This pattern uses a 5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
bobble - yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, pull through all the chains
inc stitch - whatever stitch you're doing two in the first inc, ch 2, two in the second inc




I started with the softest yarn because that's what I would want on my neck.
Chain 30 and sl st to join making sure you haven't twisted the chain.
Mark 15 stitches apart.
Row 1: ch 3, dc until your first stitch marker, in the same stitch (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), hdc to the second stich marker, in the same stitch (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), hdc until the end and sl st to join
Row 2: ch 3, sk st, *bobble, ch 2, sk st. In the increase stitch do hdc not bobbles. Repeat from * all the way around, sl st to join.
Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the chain space. In the inc stitch do your dc. Sl st to join.
Row 4: ch 2, hdc all the way around except your inc stitchs. Sl st to join
Row 5: ch 2, hdc, ch all the way around except your inc stitchs. Sl st to join
Row 6: ch 2, , hdc all the way around except your inc stitchs. Sl st to join
Repeat rows 1-6. For the first yarn I made sure to save some because I wanted to go back and do the collar so I only did 5 rounds before I switched. For all the other skeins, I used them until they were gone and then just wove in the next yarn. I didn't worry about only doing it on a new row.
For the arm openings I went with row 18. You might want do to it earlier or later depending on how where it feels comfortable for you. I decided which side I wanted to be the front and then experimented with where the arm holes should go. They ended up much wider than I thought, but that was where it was most comfortable. I had the arm holes start 19 inches from the inc, including the inc stitches but not the chains - mark it. Then I counted 12 stitches inward and mark that.

When you get to the first marker chain 14 stitches loosely then join at the second marker with whatever stitch you are on. Do the same for the second arm hole. In the next row treat the chain stitches as if they are normal stitches for the row.

Boarder: Save the last skein for the boarder. I ended on a hdc ch row and I think that made for a nice alignment with the boarder. Boarder row 1: ch 6 (counts as a dc and 3 ch), sk a chain space, *3 dc in the same chain space, ch 3, dc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *. Sl st to join. It worked out perfectly for me to do 3 dc in the inc stitch so I went with that.
Boarder row 2: ch 4 (counts as sc and 3 ch), *in the second dc stitch (2 dc in the same stitch then ch 6 then sc in the 4th chain, ch 3 then 2 dc in the same stitch), ch 3, sc in the next dc stitch, ch 3. Repeat from * around sl st to join.







I had just enough of the boarder yarn left to add a row of hdc around the sleeves. No particular reason other than asthetics. I also added a button on each one to be able to close it.

The last thing to do is add your collar. I had enough yarn for 4 rows. For the first 3 I did hdc skipping a stitch every 10 stitches to decrease it a bit. The last row I did hdc then chain.

Still looking at making some dark solid sweaters I can wear for work that will match a lot of things. This cardigan is very soft, and will work with a lot of different outfits. The pattern is based on a stitch I found in a book - shells and arcs that was really easy to do.


Cast on in multiples of 8 + 5
Row 1: sc, * ch 5, sk 3, sc. Repeat from * to end with the sc
Row 2: ch 3, 3 dc in the ch space, * ch 3, sc in the next chain space, ch 3, 3 dc in the ch space. Repeat from * ending with a dc
Row 3: ch 6, sc in the 4th dc from the previous row, *ch 5, sc in the 1st dc from the previous row, ch 5, sc in the 4th dc of the previous row. Repeat from * ending with a sc
Row 4: ch 6, * sc in the ch space of the previous row, ch 3, 3 dc in the chain space of the previous row, ch 3. Repeat from * ending with a dc.
Repeat rows 2-4 until you get your desired length.





This pattern is like most of my cardigans - make a back panel then male two side panels that are slightly smaller than 1/2 the width of the back panel. Sew together leaving arm holes. Then pick up stitches for the arms to your desired length. Then add a collar and pockets.

I saw a picture of a triangle scrave that was actually attached and had to make one. Take the pattern for any triangle scarf and when it gets to be about arms length - start crocheting in the round on the long side. Taper in the neck a bit. Voila!

I can't wait for it to be cool enough to wear this.

This poncho was a labor of love. There was so much frogging that happened making this. It came out amazing though. Unfortunately no pattern because it was such a labor of love. I've had a few people ask me about buying it. I can't let it go right now though.

The yarn is from A Hundred Ravens and its 2 Large Yaksha Gradient skeins in Famous Rainbows of the 80s. The the trees were some random brown I had in my stash of leftovers.




Trying to show more of it laid out on the floor.

What a great name for yarn - Crumble Slubby. It's such a great name I had to name the pattern after it. This shawl worked up really quickly. I did most of it at my show last weekend and just had to figure out the edging. I used 2 full skeins of the Crumble Slumby by Kim Dyes Yarn. It is a fingering weight yarn that is 438 yards.

This pattern uses a 4mm hook. I've been using the 4mm hook a lot lately. I think because I've been making a lot of lightweight summery things.




Stitches:
ch - chain
sl st - skip stitch
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble crochet


Start with a magic circle.
Row 1: ch 4, dc, dc, ch 2, dc, dc, ch, dc
Row 2: ch 4, dc in the first dc, 2 dc in the second dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the first dc, ch, dc, ch, dc
Row 3 - 9: ch 4, dc in each of the chain spaces leading to the center space then dc ch in the first dc of the chain space of the last row. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc then ch, dc in the second dc of the chain space from the last row. Ch, dc in each of the chain spaces to the end.
Row 10: ch 3, 2 dc in each chain space leading to the center space then dc ch in the first dc of the chain space of the last row. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc then 2 dc in the second dc of the chain space from the last row. 2 dc in each of the chain spaces to the end, dc in the last stitch.
Row 11: ch 3, dc in each stitch leading to the center space. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. dc in each stitch to the end of the row.
Row 12: ch 4, then sk st, dc to the center space. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc then ch dc in each stitch to the end of the row.
Row 13: Repeat row 10
Row 14: ch 2, hdc in each stitch leading to the center space. In the center space 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc. hdc in each stitch to the end of the row.
Row 15: Repeat row 11
Row 16: Repeat row 12
Row 17 - 24: Repeat row 3
Row 25: Repeat row 10
Row 26: Repeat row 11
Row 27: Repeat row 12
Row 28: Repeat row 10
Row 29: Repeat row 14
Row 30: Repeat row 11
Row 31: Repeat row 12
Row 32-39: Repeat row 3
Row 40: Repeat row 10
Row 41: Repeat row 11





Now we're going to do the edging. You're going to do one row of hdc along the top of the triangle. For all of the rows that have dc do 3 dc, for the rows that have a hdc do 2 dc. This will help make the top look a little more even.
Edging row along the other two sides of the triangle: ch 4, Repeat tr ch 2 tr in the next stitch to the center. In the second stitch of the dc from the last round 2 tr ch 5 2 tr. Repeat tr ch 2 tr ending with a tr.
That's it. Super simple and you'll be surprised how quickly this shawl works up.

This pattern uses the Lace Star Flower Stitch that I found in this pattern. I had two skeins of this yarn from when I used to belong to a yarn of the month club. This is Audine Wools Shine Sport in Sky. The yarn is a sport weight and was 350 yarns. I used almost the entire 2 skeins of yarn.


I'm not going to recreate the stitch pattern, since it is linked on the Joy of Motion Crochet site. The back Was 75 stitches wide, the two side panels were 35 stitches wide, and the pockets were 25 stitches wide. I used the same stitch on the sleeves, made them 3/4 length, and at the end of the sleeves I did 5 rows of chain 3 single crochet. For the collar I added a few more rows of the star flower and then did the same 5 rows of the chain 3 single crochet.




I'm happy with how this turned out. Simple little cardigan.

I travelled for work every week in April. I realized while I was travelling that all my sweaters are colorful, on purpose because I like color, but I didn't have a simple black sweater that I could pack in my bag and wear multiple days. I mean I do have multiple of those from back in the day, but none that I had made myself. I made sure to buy black yarn at the Maryland Sheep and Wool for that exact purpose.

This yarn is Kashmir by Fiber Optic Yarn in Morticia which is a fingering weight yarn and comes in skeins of 420 yards. I've used this yarn before in other colors and love how soft it is. It's made of 80% merino wool and I often feel like merino wool is magic because it's somehow warm when it's cold, but also cool when its warm and you just need a light cover up.




This sweater took me a while because this stitch is intricate. There were more than a few times when I had to frog back a row to fix things. Due to that - I lost track of exactly how many stitches I cast on for the back panel and sides. I *think* it was 74 for the back and 34 for the panels, but I'm not sure. This does follow the design of most of my sweaters - back panel, 2 side panels, sew them together, add the sleeves, flip inside out, do a collar, and finally add pockets.




Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st - skip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
dc2tog - double crochet 2 together
shell - dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc (6 dc with ch in between all in the same stitch)
bobble - yarn over, insert hook into the stitch and pull up, yarn over and draw up a loop, draw through 2 loops - do this 3 times then yarn over and draw through 4 loops on the hook






This stitch is called sprouts and it's done in multiples of 10 + 4.

Row 1: dc in the 4th ch from the hook ch 1, dc in the same stitch, ch 1, dc in the same stitch again, ch 1, * sk 3 st, sc in the next stitch, ch 3, sk st, sc in the next stitch, sk 3 st**, shell in the next ch. Repeat from * across endding at **, in the last stitch do half a shell - dc, ch, dc, ch, dc.
Row 2: ch 2, dc in the same dc, * ch3, sc in the next ch 1 space, ch 2, sc in the second ch space of the shell, ch 3**, bobble in the third chain space of the shell, ch 3, sc, in the fourth chain space of the shell, ch 2, sc in the next sc after the bobble. Repeat from * across ending with **. Dc2tog in the last chain
Row 3: Ch 3, * sc in the next ch 3 space, sk next ch 2 space, shell in the next ch 3 space, sk next ch 2 space, sc in the next ch 3 space**, ch 3, sk the bobble, sc in the next ch 3 space. Repeat from * across ending at **. ch 1, hdc in the last ch.
Row 4: Ch 3, sc in the next ch 1 sp, * ch 2, sc in the second ch space of the shell, ch 3, bobble in the third chain space of the shell, ch 3, sc, in the fourth chain space of the shell, sc in the next sc, ch 2**, sc in the next sc, ch 3, sc in the next sc. Repeat from * across stopping at **. Sc, ch1, hdc all in in the last chain Row 5: Ch 4, dc ch dc in the starting stitch, * sk in the next ch 2 space before the bobble, ch 3, sc in ch space after the bobble**, shell in the next ch 3 space. Repeat from * ending at **. In the last ch - dc, ch, dc, ch, dc (half a shell)
Rep rows 2-5 until you have your desired length.

Unfortunately I cannot find the stitch that I used to make this and too much time has passed for me to remember it. I had all the pieces for a while and just needed to sew it together, but things happened and it took a while.

The yarn is Saratoga Sport by Into the Whirled in Whovian. I do remember that it looks more complicated than it is. It was just two repeating rows.

This cute little cardigan came together quickly. It uses 3 skeins of Malabrigo Rios Worsted weight yarn. Each skein is 210 yards and I used almost all of it. Unfortunately it does not have a dye lot or a colorway and I can't remember where I picked it up.

I've been into the 3/4 length sleeves lately. In this particular case it was necessary because I definitely didn't have enough yarn for full sleeves.




For this pattern I used a 6 mm hook.
Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

Back Panel
ch 70
Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, *ch2, sk 2 st, dc, dc. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 until its 32 rows long (or your desired length).

Side Panels - Make 2
ch 30
Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, *ch2, sk 2 st, dc, dc. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 until its 32 rows long (or your desired length).






Sew together the top of the sweater and down the sides leaving 7-8 inches for the sleeve opening.

For the sleeves you're going to repeat the same pattern, but alternate directions.
Row 1: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and sl st to join
I picked up 11 of the dc around. Repeat row 2 until you have 15 rows. For each row change directions so that you have a chain space.

Turn the cardigan inside out.
On the edge of the sleeve: Row 1: *ch 4, sc in the chain space. Repeat from * around, sc at the start.
Row 2-3: Repeat row 1.




Collar

Row 1: * ch 4, sc in the chain space. Repeat from * around, sc to end.
Row 2-5: Repeat row 1

Pockets - make 2

ch 18
Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, *ch2, sk 2 st, dc, dc. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Rows 3-8: repeat row 2
Sew on pockets

I loved this yarn when I bought it, but it wasn't until I was actually starting to use it that I realized that it was rainbow colored, although definitely darker than your usual rainbows. I bought this yarn at the Maryland Sheep and Wool from Briar Rose Fibers. The actual colorway wasn't labelled, but it is their promises yarn. Their shop is currently closed so I can't link to it, but its a worsted weight yarn that is 500 yards a skein and I used nearly all of 2 skeins.

This worked up really quick while I was travelling last week. I definitely was getting looks as I was trying to sew it together in the Delta lounge late Thursday night. I have been travelling so much for work that I have barely touched clay. I have been watching a ton of videos though so I have all these ideas for when I have time this weekend. I also have 3 kilns worth of bisque to glaze, but I'm itching to make more vs glaze

Also ClayShareCon is this week so I know I'm going to have more ideas soon.








This pattern uses a 5mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk - skip
hdc - half double crochet
sl st - slip stitch

Back panel

Cast on 81
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. I liked the look better ending on a row 2/4 vs a 1/4. I have about 50 rows

Side panels - make 2

Cast on 41
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. These need to be the same length as the back panel

Sew the front panels to the back panel leaving about 7 inches for the arms.

Sleeves

Row 1: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, sl st to join. I picked up 10 of the 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc
Row 2: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, sl st to join.
Row 3: repeat row 1
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1, but don't do the last 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc - so you should have 9 instead of 10. Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 1
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: repeat row 9 - you should end up with 8 now
Row 14: repeat row 2
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 1

You can adjust this to your desired length for your sleeves, I have kind of short arms and I made this on the short side. I like the look better ending on a row 1.










Colar

Turn the sweater right side out. Lay it flat in front of you and start at the bottom right corner.
Row 1: ch 3, (hdc, hdc) into the same space, *sk to the next chain space, 3 hdc. Repeat from * up the right side across the back, and down the left side, hdc in the last stitch.

Repeat row 1 for 9 rows or until you have your desired colar. I really like the thick colar on this one.

Pockets - make 2
Cast on 11
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 3
Row 8: repeat row 4
Row 9: repeat row 5
Row 10: repeat row 2


Sew on the pockets onto the front panels. I did these 2 inches from the bottom and an inch back from where the colar starts.

I finished this sweater over the holidays. Until I started this blog post I didn't even realize it's also Christmasy colors. I don't have a pattern for this because I worked and reworked this sweater too many times and I lost track. The yarn I used is Mirepoix and Hornet from Into the Whirled in DK weight. I actually had more of the Hornet than the Mirepoix, but I forgot that when starting this at a show and started with the Mirepoix. So of course I ran out in the middle and had to buy more. It's not an exact match because its definitely different dye lots, but its the sleeves and the pockets and I feel like the only person who will notice it is me.




The back and the front panels is a simple moss stitch. This is made by doing single crochet and chain all the way across. You're always single crocheting in the chain stitches and it creates a nice neat pattern. I made it really long, hitting me mid calf, and I'm hoping it doesn't stretch too much.




The color is just alternating rows of half double crochet and half double crochet back loop only. I made the collar extra wide at 14 rows. The pockets are mostly the Mirepoix with just one row of Hornet. They are actually probably a little low, but I really like the look.






I'm still debating whether I add a button or three. The original button I had in mind looked good in theory, but is too big for the half double crochet stitches. I've considered making a button hole. I don't know - what do you think?

I love this yarn. I used it for my Open Wave Block Shirt last year. I bought more yarn from Greenwood Hill Farm at the Maryland Sheep and Wool and was just waiting for the yarn to tell me what it wanted to be. I'm really happy with the results. I used 2 skeins of silver and 3 of slate

I know from the shirt I made that this yarn is exceptionally warm so once again I chose an open pattern so I could wear it indoors without sweating. I picked this stitch from the Crochet Every Way Stitch Dictionary. This is the spider filet stitch. I don't think it looks like a spider, especially considering spiders have 8 legs not 6.








Stitches:
ch: chain
sk st: skip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
dc3tog: yarn over twice, insert hook and pull through a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (you should have 2 loops on your hook). Yarn over twice, insert hook and pull through a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (you should have 3 loops on your hook). Yarn over twice, insert hook and pull through a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (you should have 4 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops to complete the stitch. picot: sc, ch 3, sl st in the sc stitch you started with, sc in the next stitch to close
Back Panel:
This pattern works in multiples of 16 + 8. For the width I wanted I cast on 72 (16*4 + 8)
Row 1: dc in the 6th chain from the hook, * ch 1, sk st, dc. Rep from * across.
Row 2: ch 4, sk st, dc, ch 1, dc, *ch 4, sk 2 st, dc3tog, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Row 3: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, *ch 4, sc in the next ch 4 space, sc in the dc3tog, sc in the next ch 4 space, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Row 4: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, *ch 4, dc3tog in the middle sc, ch 4, dc in the dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Row 5: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Row 6: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Repeat rows 2-6 5 times or until you reach your desired length.

Front panel - Make 2
Cast on 28. This isn't a full version of the pattern,but I wanted the front panels to end slightly short
Row 1: dc in the 6th chain from the hook, * ch 1, sk st, dc. Rep from * across.
Row 2: ch 4, sk st, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc3tog, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc3tog, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc
Row 3: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, ch 4, sc in the next ch 4 space, sc in the dc3tog, sc in the next ch 4 space, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 4, sc in the next ch 4 space, sc in the dc3tog, sc in the next ch 4 space, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc
Row 4: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, ch 4, dc3tog in the middle sc, ch 4, dc in the dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 4, dc3tog in the middle sc, ch 4, dc in the dc
Row 5: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Row 6: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Repeat rows 2-6 5 times or until you reach your desired length.

Sew together the front panels to the back panel leaving 7 inches for the sleeves.








For the sleeves witch to the silver yarn.
Row 1: ch 4, * ch 1, sk st, dc. Rep from * across ending with ch 1, slip stitch to join. Pick up 36 stitches
Row 2: ch 4, sk st, dc, ch 1, dc, *ch 4, sk 2 st, dc3tog, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 3: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, *ch 4, sc in the next ch 4 space, sc in the dc3tog, sc in the next ch 4 space, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 4: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, *ch 4, dc3tog in the middle sc, ch 4, dc in the dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 5: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 6: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 7: ch 4, * ch 1, sk st, dc. Rep from * across ending with ch 1, slip stitch to join. Note on this round there is intentionally a reduction of the 3 dc in the sleeves to 2 between the spiders
Row 8: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 4, sk 2 st, dc3tog, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 9: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 4, sc in the next ch 4 space, sc in the dc3tog, sc in the next ch 4 space, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 10: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, *ch 4, dc3tog in the middle sc, ch 4, dc in the dc, ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 11: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 12: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across. For the last stich slip stitch to join instead of the dc
Row 13: ch 5, *sk 2 st, dc, ch 2. Repeat from * across sl st to join.
Row 14: ch 5, *sk 2 st, dc, ch 2. Repeat from * across sl st to join.
Row 15: ch 3, dc in the chain space, *2 dc in the next ch space. Repeat from * sl st to join.
Row 16: ch 3, dc in each stitch, sl st to join.
Row 17: ch 1, sc, picot in each stitch around, sl st to join.









Turn the sweater right side out
Pockets - make 2
Cast on 16 in the slate
Row 1: dc in the 6th chain from the hook, * ch 1, sk st, dc. Rep from * across.
Row 2: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Row 3: ch 4, sk st, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc3tog, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc
Row 3: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, ch 4, sc in the next ch 4 space, sc in the dc3tog, sc in the next ch 4 space, ch 4, sk 2 st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc
Row 4: ch 4, sk st, dc, sk st, ch 1, dc, ch 4, dc3tog in the middle sc, ch 4, dc in the dc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, dc
Row 5: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across
Row 6: ch 4, sk st, dc, *ch 1, sk st, dc. Repeat from * across


Switch to silver
Row 7: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, *2 hdc in the next chain space. Repeat from * ending with the last hdc in the last stitch
Row 8: ch 1, picot in each stitch to the end.

Sew on to make the spider stitches line up on the front panel. I decided to map it to the second one up.








Collar

Start at the bottom right corner with the silver yarn
Row 1: ch 3, 2 hdc in the space, * 3 hdc in the next space. Repeat from star all the way around to the bottom left corner.
Row 2: ch 4, * sk st, dc, ch. Repeat from * across end with a dc in the last stitch.
Row 3: repeat row 3
Row 4: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * 2 dc in the next chain space. Repeat from * across, end with a dc in the last stitch
Row 5: ch 1, picot across.

Weave in all ends

I made most of this top at one of my recent holiday shows, but needed to finish it. At most shows I don't have enough space to sew the pieces together so it has to wait until I'm home. This yarn from Morehouse Farm is really soft and very warm. I find sometimes that I want a warm sweater for inside where I'm not going to be too warm. That's why I made this sweater with an open stitch. I actually was going to make the sleeves longer, but I didn't have enough yarn. You could easily extend them if you wanted to (and had enough yarn).

I used 3 skeins of the Blueberry and 2 of the Wisteria from their 3 strand worsted. This is a nice size worsted weight yarn and their skeins have approximtely 145 yards of yarn. You could make this with any worsted weight yarn.






This pattern uses a 6 mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk - skip stitches
dc - double crochet

Front and Back panels - make 2

Cast on 28 with the Blueberry
Row 1: dc in the 6th stitch from the hook, dc in the same stitch, ch 2, 2 more dc in the same stitch, sk 4 stitches, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the next stitch, sk 4 stitches. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch
Rows 3-16: repeat row 2

Switch yarns to the Wisteria
Rows 17-24: repeat row 2








Sew the 2 panels together. Leave a 9 inch opening at the top for the neck and 7-8 inches for the sleeves. I also like to leave 1-2 inches at the bottom, but this is just stylistic.

Make the sleeves:
Row 1: ch 3, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch. Pick up 9 stitches.
Rows 2-5: repeat row 1

Weave in all ends and flip the shirt right side out.