I've said it in the past, but many of my patterns now start with me looking through a book of various stitches, picking one, and then designing a sweater around that. This sweater uses the maple fans stitch found in The New Crochet Stitch Dictionary by Nele Braas and Eveline Hetty-Brown. I found a used copy that I've been perusing a lot recently. If you can find a copy and like to look at stitches, I'd highly recommend it. I did modify the stitch a bit to be double crochets instead of trebles to make the holes a little smaller.

I made this sweater mostly during Colorfest a few weeks ago. It was definitely an emergent design as I was in between people being in my booth that day. The yarn is Worsted Tweed by American Ewe Yarn in Glass of Port. I had 3 skeins of yarn and I used almost all of it. Each skein is 237 yards and it is a worsted weight tweed. Obviously this sweater has some larger holes in it so it definitely needs a shirt under it, but despite that it is really warm.






This pattern uses a 5.5 mm yarn

Stitches:

ch - chain
sk st
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
dc2tog - 2 double crochet into the same stitch and crocheted together

Front and back panels (make 2). Cast on in multiples of 4 + 2
I cast on 58
Row 1: sc all the way across
Row 2: ch 5 (counts as dc + 2 ch), dc2tog in the starting stitch, sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch, * sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across end with a dc
Row 3: ch 3, * dc2tog in the midle of the 3 chains, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach your desired length. I had 18 rows.






Stitch the two panels together leaving approximately 8 inches for the arms and neck. I decided that I wanted the V's facing up, but you could do either up or down. Make sure your panels are facing the same direction though.

For the neck add a row of sc around the collar.

For the sleeves pick up 10 V's.
Row 1: ch 3, dc in the starting stitch, sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch, * sk 2 st, dc2tog, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across slip stitch to join

Row 2: ch 3, * dc2tog in the midle of the 3 chains, ch 3, dc2tog in the same stitch. Repeat from * across slip stitch to join

I made the sleeves 10 rows long.

This is my second poncho made with a Fusion 1000 kit from Cat Mountain Fiber Arts. These come as a kit with 10 different yarns of a similar color but different textures. This one is blacks and greys and I used almost all of it.

I wanted something that would match a lot of things, but that I could also wear at work.

This pattern uses a 5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
bobble - yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, pull through all the chains
inc stitch - whatever stitch you're doing two in the first inc, ch 2, two in the second inc




I started with the softest yarn because that's what I would want on my neck.
Chain 30 and sl st to join making sure you haven't twisted the chain.
Mark 15 stitches apart.
Row 1: ch 3, dc until your first stitch marker, in the same stitch (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), hdc to the second stich marker, in the same stitch (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), hdc until the end and sl st to join
Row 2: ch 3, sk st, *bobble, ch 2, sk st. In the increase stitch do hdc not bobbles. Repeat from * all the way around, sl st to join.
Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the chain space. In the inc stitch do your dc. Sl st to join.
Row 4: ch 2, hdc all the way around except your inc stitchs. Sl st to join
Row 5: ch 2, hdc, ch all the way around except your inc stitchs. Sl st to join
Row 6: ch 2, , hdc all the way around except your inc stitchs. Sl st to join
Repeat rows 1-6. For the first yarn I made sure to save some because I wanted to go back and do the collar so I only did 5 rounds before I switched. For all the other skeins, I used them until they were gone and then just wove in the next yarn. I didn't worry about only doing it on a new row.
For the arm openings I went with row 18. You might want do to it earlier or later depending on how where it feels comfortable for you. I decided which side I wanted to be the front and then experimented with where the arm holes should go. They ended up much wider than I thought, but that was where it was most comfortable. I had the arm holes start 19 inches from the inc, including the inc stitches but not the chains - mark it. Then I counted 12 stitches inward and mark that.

When you get to the first marker chain 14 stitches loosely then join at the second marker with whatever stitch you are on. Do the same for the second arm hole. In the next row treat the chain stitches as if they are normal stitches for the row.

Boarder: Save the last skein for the boarder. I ended on a hdc ch row and I think that made for a nice alignment with the boarder. Boarder row 1: ch 6 (counts as a dc and 3 ch), sk a chain space, *3 dc in the same chain space, ch 3, dc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *. Sl st to join. It worked out perfectly for me to do 3 dc in the inc stitch so I went with that.
Boarder row 2: ch 4 (counts as sc and 3 ch), *in the second dc stitch (2 dc in the same stitch then ch 6 then sc in the 4th chain, ch 3 then 2 dc in the same stitch), ch 3, sc in the next dc stitch, ch 3. Repeat from * around sl st to join.







I had just enough of the boarder yarn left to add a row of hdc around the sleeves. No particular reason other than asthetics. I also added a button on each one to be able to close it.

The last thing to do is add your collar. I had enough yarn for 4 rows. For the first 3 I did hdc skipping a stitch every 10 stitches to decrease it a bit. The last row I did hdc then chain.

Still looking at making some dark solid sweaters I can wear for work that will match a lot of things. This cardigan is very soft, and will work with a lot of different outfits. The pattern is based on a stitch I found in a book - shells and arcs that was really easy to do.


Cast on in multiples of 8 + 5
Row 1: sc, * ch 5, sk 3, sc. Repeat from * to end with the sc
Row 2: ch 3, 3 dc in the ch space, * ch 3, sc in the next chain space, ch 3, 3 dc in the ch space. Repeat from * ending with a dc
Row 3: ch 6, sc in the 4th dc from the previous row, *ch 5, sc in the 1st dc from the previous row, ch 5, sc in the 4th dc of the previous row. Repeat from * ending with a sc
Row 4: ch 6, * sc in the ch space of the previous row, ch 3, 3 dc in the chain space of the previous row, ch 3. Repeat from * ending with a dc.
Repeat rows 2-4 until you get your desired length.





This pattern is like most of my cardigans - make a back panel then male two side panels that are slightly smaller than 1/2 the width of the back panel. Sew together leaving arm holes. Then pick up stitches for the arms to your desired length. Then add a collar and pockets.

What a great name for yarn - Crumble Slubby. It's such a great name I had to name the pattern after it. This shawl worked up really quickly. I did most of it at my show last weekend and just had to figure out the edging. I used 2 full skeins of the Crumble Slumby by Kim Dyes Yarn. It is a fingering weight yarn that is 438 yards.

This pattern uses a 4mm hook. I've been using the 4mm hook a lot lately. I think because I've been making a lot of lightweight summery things.




Stitches:
ch - chain
sl st - skip stitch
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble crochet


Start with a magic circle.
Row 1: ch 4, dc, dc, ch 2, dc, dc, ch, dc
Row 2: ch 4, dc in the first dc, 2 dc in the second dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the first dc, ch, dc, ch, dc
Row 3 - 9: ch 4, dc in each of the chain spaces leading to the center space then dc ch in the first dc of the chain space of the last row. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc then ch, dc in the second dc of the chain space from the last row. Ch, dc in each of the chain spaces to the end.
Row 10: ch 3, 2 dc in each chain space leading to the center space then dc ch in the first dc of the chain space of the last row. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc then 2 dc in the second dc of the chain space from the last row. 2 dc in each of the chain spaces to the end, dc in the last stitch.
Row 11: ch 3, dc in each stitch leading to the center space. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. dc in each stitch to the end of the row.
Row 12: ch 4, then sk st, dc to the center space. In the center space 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc then ch dc in each stitch to the end of the row.
Row 13: Repeat row 10
Row 14: ch 2, hdc in each stitch leading to the center space. In the center space 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc. hdc in each stitch to the end of the row.
Row 15: Repeat row 11
Row 16: Repeat row 12
Row 17 - 24: Repeat row 3
Row 25: Repeat row 10
Row 26: Repeat row 11
Row 27: Repeat row 12
Row 28: Repeat row 10
Row 29: Repeat row 14
Row 30: Repeat row 11
Row 31: Repeat row 12
Row 32-39: Repeat row 3
Row 40: Repeat row 10
Row 41: Repeat row 11





Now we're going to do the edging. You're going to do one row of hdc along the top of the triangle. For all of the rows that have dc do 3 dc, for the rows that have a hdc do 2 dc. This will help make the top look a little more even.
Edging row along the other two sides of the triangle: ch 4, Repeat tr ch 2 tr in the next stitch to the center. In the second stitch of the dc from the last round 2 tr ch 5 2 tr. Repeat tr ch 2 tr ending with a tr.
That's it. Super simple and you'll be surprised how quickly this shawl works up.

This pattern uses the Lace Star Flower Stitch that I found in this pattern. I had two skeins of this yarn from when I used to belong to a yarn of the month club. This is Audine Wools Shine Sport in Sky. The yarn is a sport weight and was 350 yarns. I used almost the entire 2 skeins of yarn.


I'm not going to recreate the stitch pattern, since it is linked on the Joy of Motion Crochet site. The back Was 75 stitches wide, the two side panels were 35 stitches wide, and the pockets were 25 stitches wide. I used the same stitch on the sleeves, made them 3/4 length, and at the end of the sleeves I did 5 rows of chain 3 single crochet. For the collar I added a few more rows of the star flower and then did the same 5 rows of the chain 3 single crochet.




I'm happy with how this turned out. Simple little cardigan.

This cute little cardigan came together quickly. It uses 3 skeins of Malabrigo Rios Worsted weight yarn. Each skein is 210 yards and I used almost all of it. Unfortunately it does not have a dye lot or a colorway and I can't remember where I picked it up.

I've been into the 3/4 length sleeves lately. In this particular case it was necessary because I definitely didn't have enough yarn for full sleeves.




For this pattern I used a 6 mm hook.
Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

Back Panel
ch 70
Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, *ch2, sk 2 st, dc, dc. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 until its 32 rows long (or your desired length).

Side Panels - Make 2
ch 30
Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, *ch2, sk 2 st, dc, dc. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 until its 32 rows long (or your desired length).






Sew together the top of the sweater and down the sides leaving 7-8 inches for the sleeve opening.

For the sleeves you're going to repeat the same pattern, but alternate directions.
Row 1: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and sl st to join
I picked up 11 of the dc around. Repeat row 2 until you have 15 rows. For each row change directions so that you have a chain space.

Turn the cardigan inside out.
On the edge of the sleeve: Row 1: *ch 4, sc in the chain space. Repeat from * around, sc at the start.
Row 2-3: Repeat row 1.




Collar

Row 1: * ch 4, sc in the chain space. Repeat from * around, sc to end.
Row 2-5: Repeat row 1

Pockets - make 2

ch 18
Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, *ch2, sk 2 st, dc, dc. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, dc in the ch space, * ch2, 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across, ch 2 and dc in the last stitch
Rows 3-8: repeat row 2
Sew on pockets

I loved this yarn when I bought it, but it wasn't until I was actually starting to use it that I realized that it was rainbow colored, although definitely darker than your usual rainbows. I bought this yarn at the Maryland Sheep and Wool from Briar Rose Fibers. The actual colorway wasn't labelled, but it is their promises yarn. Their shop is currently closed so I can't link to it, but its a worsted weight yarn that is 500 yards a skein and I used nearly all of 2 skeins.

This worked up really quick while I was travelling last week. I definitely was getting looks as I was trying to sew it together in the Delta lounge late Thursday night. I have been travelling so much for work that I have barely touched clay. I have been watching a ton of videos though so I have all these ideas for when I have time this weekend. I also have 3 kilns worth of bisque to glaze, but I'm itching to make more vs glaze

Also ClayShareCon is this week so I know I'm going to have more ideas soon.








This pattern uses a 5mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk - skip
hdc - half double crochet
sl st - slip stitch

Back panel

Cast on 81
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. I liked the look better ending on a row 2/4 vs a 1/4. I have about 50 rows

Side panels - make 2

Cast on 41
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. These need to be the same length as the back panel

Sew the front panels to the back panel leaving about 7 inches for the arms.

Sleeves

Row 1: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, sl st to join. I picked up 10 of the 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc
Row 2: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, sl st to join.
Row 3: repeat row 1
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1, but don't do the last 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc - so you should have 9 instead of 10. Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 1
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: repeat row 9 - you should end up with 8 now
Row 14: repeat row 2
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 1

You can adjust this to your desired length for your sleeves, I have kind of short arms and I made this on the short side. I like the look better ending on a row 1.










Colar

Turn the sweater right side out. Lay it flat in front of you and start at the bottom right corner.
Row 1: ch 3, (hdc, hdc) into the same space, *sk to the next chain space, 3 hdc. Repeat from * up the right side across the back, and down the left side, hdc in the last stitch.

Repeat row 1 for 9 rows or until you have your desired colar. I really like the thick colar on this one.

Pockets - make 2
Cast on 11
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 3
Row 8: repeat row 4
Row 9: repeat row 5
Row 10: repeat row 2


Sew on the pockets onto the front panels. I did these 2 inches from the bottom and an inch back from where the colar starts.

I made most of this top at one of my recent holiday shows, but needed to finish it. At most shows I don't have enough space to sew the pieces together so it has to wait until I'm home. This yarn from Morehouse Farm is really soft and very warm. I find sometimes that I want a warm sweater for inside where I'm not going to be too warm. That's why I made this sweater with an open stitch. I actually was going to make the sleeves longer, but I didn't have enough yarn. You could easily extend them if you wanted to (and had enough yarn).

I used 3 skeins of the Blueberry and 2 of the Wisteria from their 3 strand worsted. This is a nice size worsted weight yarn and their skeins have approximtely 145 yards of yarn. You could make this with any worsted weight yarn.






This pattern uses a 6 mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk - skip stitches
dc - double crochet

Front and Back panels - make 2

Cast on 28 with the Blueberry
Row 1: dc in the 6th stitch from the hook, dc in the same stitch, ch 2, 2 more dc in the same stitch, sk 4 stitches, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the next stitch, sk 4 stitches. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch
Rows 3-16: repeat row 2

Switch yarns to the Wisteria
Rows 17-24: repeat row 2








Sew the 2 panels together. Leave a 9 inch opening at the top for the neck and 7-8 inches for the sleeves. I also like to leave 1-2 inches at the bottom, but this is just stylistic.

Make the sleeves:
Row 1: ch 3, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch. Pick up 9 stitches.
Rows 2-5: repeat row 1

Weave in all ends and flip the shirt right side out.

I didn't buy these two yarns thinking that they went together. They just happened to end up next to each other in my yarn storage (under bed shoe containers) and I went - oooooh. The main blue green is from Briar Rose and is 3 skeins of their whisper #117. The olive green is a skein and a half in Hunt Valley Cashmere that I had leftover from my Spring Flower Top made earlier this year.

I feel like this sweater is gorgeous, but the colors remind me of algae in a pond which is where I came up with the name.




Both of these yarns are DK weight and you could use any two complimentary DK weight yarns. I used a 5.5 mm hook for this pattern. The rectangles for the sweater in this pattern are made vertical - which means the same cast on for the back panel and both front panels. If you want it longer or shorter then add or remove the number you cast on.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sk st - skip stitch
hdc - half double crochet
bobble - yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, pull through all 9 stitches on the hook, chain

Back Panel:

cast on 90
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8
change yarn colors here

Row 15: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 16-18: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc
change back to original yarn color

Row 19: ch 2, hdc in the same space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 20: repeat row 2
Row 21-24: repeat row 3
Row 25: repeat row 7
Row 26: repeat row 8
Row 27: repeat row 2
Row 29-31: repeat row 3
Row 32: repeat row 7

Front Panels - Make 2

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8






Line up the front panels with the back panel - they should go right to the edge of the second color of yarn. Leave about 8 inches for the arm hole. I also like to leave around 2 inches on the bottom, but this is stylistic. Sew the panels together.

Sleeves (done on each arm):

Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around and then sl st to join. I picked up 48 stitches - the exact number doesn't matter as long as it's close
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a sl st to join
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a sl st to join
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. End with a sl st to join
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across, sl st to join
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8

change yarn colors here

Row 15: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a sl st to join
Row 16: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a sl st to join

change back to original yarn color

Row 17: ch 2, hdc in the same space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. End with a sl st to join
Row 18: repeat row 2
Row 19-22: repeat row 3
Row 23: repeat row 7

change yarn colors here

Row 24: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a sl st to join
Row 25: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a sl st to join






Collar

Turn the sweater right side out. When you lay it flat in front of you start at the bottom right corner

Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch

change yarn colors here

Row 8: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 9: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc






Pockets (make 2):

cast on 16
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 3: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 5-7: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch

change yarn colors here

Row 8: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 9: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc

Sew on the pockets where comfortable for your arm length. My pockets are 5 rows from the bottom and 7 rows back from the end of the collar.

Weave in all ends and voila a great fall sweater.

This is based on the Let it Bee Wrap from Heart, Hook, Home. However, instead of making a wrap I made a cute little cover up.


I wish I remembered what this yarn was. I've had it for years just staring at me. All I remember is that it was made with real silver in it. I had a couple of balls in my stash just laying there for a while and I decided to just figure something out. This is probably closest to a sport weight yarn and I used a 4.5 mm hook. You could easily make this with any yarn and just adjust the width and length to what you want it.

I still cast on 68 like the pattern said. I had 5 balls of the green and 4 of the silver. I did as many rows as I could with what I had off 2 balls of the green then switched to the silver. At the end with the last ball I was able to add 2 rows to each size and that still left me enough to sew it together. I ended up being able to 5 rows of green then 5 of silver ending with 2 rows of green. Make 2 identical panels. Again the exact length can vary based on your taste.




Once you have the two panels - sew it up. I wanted the neck to be fairly loose so I left a 13 inch neck and I left 7 inches for each of the sleeves. Unlike my usual patterns I didn't leave any slack on the side. This is because I wanted to finish it with a row of sc all the way around the bottom. I really like the way this turned out considering I started with no real plan :)

This summer sweater came together really quick. I really like summer sweaters to have fairly big holes and use a lightweight yarn. I like wearing them when there is a light breeze. I used Miss Babs yarn Katahdin in Mystery Land. This is a fingering weight yarn and the skein was 1750 yards. I used most of it, but not all of it. If I had to guess there are a couple of hundred yards left.


This pattern uses a 4 mm hook.
Stitches:

ch - chain
sk - skip
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet

Back panel - cast on 100
Row 1 - hc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *ch 3, sk 3, hdc, hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Row 2 - ch 2, hdc, *ch3, hdc in the hdc, hdc in the hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Repeat row 2 until you get to your desired length. Mine is 53 rows.

Side panel - make 2
Cast on 45
Row 1 - hc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *ch 3, sk 3, hdc, hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Row 2 - ch 2, hdc, *ch3, hdc in the hdc, hdc in the hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Repeat row 2 until you get to your desired length. Mine is 53 rows.

Sew on the side panels leaving about 7-8 inches for the arms. I also like to start about 2 inches from the bottom.




For the arms pick up 60 stitches doing the same pattern as you did for the panels.
Row 1 - ch2, hdc, *ch 3, sk 3, hdc, hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Row 2 - ch 2, hdc, *ch3, hdc in the hdc, hdc in the hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Repeat row 2 until you get to the desired arm length minus about 2 inches. Mine is 17 rows.
Sleeve Border
Row 1 - ch 3, *hdc in the chain space, ch 1, hdc in the hdc below. ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 2 - ch 3, * hdc in the chain space, ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 3 - Repeat row 2
Row 4 - ch 3, * sc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join. Row 5 and 6 - repeat row 4




Sweater Border
Make sure the sweater is right side out. Start at the bottom left corner on the inside.
Row 1 - ch 3, *sk st, hdc. Repeat from * up the one side, across the back and down the other side. It doesn't matter how many stitches you pick up as long as it looks ok.
Row 2 - ch 3, * hdc in the chain space, ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 3 through 5 - Repeat row 2
Row 6 - ch 3, * sc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join. Row 7 through 10 - repeat row 4




Pockets - make 2
Cast on 20
Row 1 - ch 3, hdc, * ch, sk st, hdc. Repeat from * across.
Row 2 - - ch 3, * hdc in the chain space, ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 3 through 11 - Repeat row 2
Row 12 - ch 3, * sc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join. Row 13 and 14 - repeat row 4
Sew on the pockets where it feels good for the arms. Mine are rows up from the bottom and one row back from the end of the original panel.

This pattern looks amazing, but is actually pretty simple once you get the hang of it. I got the stitch pattern from Crochet Kingdom.


For this shirt I used Dragonfly Fibers Sylph Worsted in Love in a Mist. Each skein is 200 yards and I used 2 skeins - one for the front and one for the back. I used a 4.5 mm hook.




I cast on 55 + 7 and worked it until the yarn ran out. I then sewed it together leaving 8 inches for the arms and about 9 for the neck.

I made the bulk of this jacket while at the Cloisters Spring Tea and Bazaar. The first day I went through two skeins of Kim Dyes Yarn Starless Night. I grabbed two more skeins thinking they were the same and in the dark light in the Cloisters they looked the same. It wasn't until I was back at work and the sun was shining on it that I realized it was different. It was actually yarn from Into the Whirled that I had leftover from another project.


So the blues in this sweater are actually slightly different. They feel slightly different, but I'm probably the only one who will ever notice. You have to look at it in the sun and then really look closely. this pattern looks awesome, but its actually just one repeating row so it's pretty easy.

I used a 4.5 mm hook for this. Since I switched yarns I'm not entirely sure how much of the dark blue I used. I think it was close to 1200 yards for the dark blue and then it was about 600 yards of the light blue.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st - skip stitch
dc - double crochet
half shell - 4 dc then ch 2 then dc in the same stitch
shell - 5 dc in the same stitch
For the main wavy lace pattern you want to cast on in multiples of 6 + 6.

For the back cast on 60.
Row 1: Dc in the 6th chain from the hook, *ch 2, sk st 5 times, half shell. In the last stitch just do the 4 dc (no ch 2 dc).
Row 2: ch 5, dc in the same stitch, *ch2, skip the first ch 2 space, half shell in the ch 2 space of the half shell in the previous row. In the last stitch just do the 4 dc (no ch 2 dc).
Repeat until desired length, I had 30 rows

Front Panel (make 2): Cast on 24
Follow the instructions above. Make the front panels the same length as the back.

Sew the panels together. Leave about 8 inches for the arm.

Add the sleeves. I picked up 7 half shells. The sleeves are 11 rows and in rows 5 and 6 I tapered by crocheting together 2 of the half shells.




Lay the sweater flat in front of you and start at the bottom right. Row 1: sc all the way up the side, across the top, and down the other side
Row 2: ch 1, *sc in the same stitch, sk st, shell. End with sk st and sc. If you don't have exactly the right number of stitches make it work. Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sc in the 3rd dc in the shell in the previous row, shell in the sc of the previous row. End with 3 dc in the sc.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2

Do the same for the end of the sleeves, but only do rows 1-4.

Pockets (make 2)

Cast on 18
Row 1: sc all the way up the side, across the top, and down the other side
Row 2: ch 1, *sc in the same stitch, sk st, shell. End with sk st and sc. If you don't have exactly the right number of stitches make it work. Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sc in the 3rd dc in the shell in the previous row, shell in the sc of the previous row. End with 3 dc in the sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 11 rows.
Sew on the pockets where the arms meet.

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This is a very simple wrap that works up pretty quick. This could be made using any yarn and sized up or down. This particular yarn is from Miss Babs and was the colorway for the Sheep and Wool Festival for 2022. It is their Caroline yarn which is fingering weight and each skein is 400 yards. This pattern uses 2 skeins and a 3.5 mm hook.






Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
bobble - yarn over twice, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, pull through (11 on the hook)
sk st - skip stitch






Cast on 201. Put a marker at stitch 100
Row 1: dc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to where your stitch marker is. dc, ch 2, dc (all in the same stitch). *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to end.
Row 2: ch 2, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch, bobble in the chain space, ch, dc into the dc. *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the end.
Row 3: ch 2, dc in the first chain space, 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch 2, dc in the dc below. 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker.

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach your desired width.






Edging row - around the whole thing: bobble in the chain space, *ch 3, sk st, bobble. Repeat to stitch marker. Bobble in the dc below, bobble in the ch, bobble in the dc below. *ch 3, sk st, bobble. When you get to the corners do 3 bobbles in the same stitch. When you get all the way around 2 bobbles and then a slip stitch to join to the first bobble.

I saw a stitch a few weeks ago that reminded me of the leaves of a flower. I had this gorgeous cashmere yarn in green and thought that it would make the perfect flower stem with with flower buds on the top. The cashmere yarn is so very soft. It's from Hunt Valley Cashmere. I used 2 skeins of the Olive and one of the White.




This pattern uses a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
stem - dc, dc, ch, dc, dc
popcorn - yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 2 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 3 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 4 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 5 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 6 loops on the hook), pull through all 6 loops






Front and back panel - make 2
Cast on 70

Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, dc in the same stitch, ch, 2 more dc in the same stitch, * skip 2 stitches, stem. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, * stem in the chain stitch of the stem below. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 3 - 18: repeat row 2. You can make it longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing rows
Row 19: ch 5, *popcorn in the chain stitch of the stem below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 20-24: ch 5, popcorn in the popcorn stitch below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch





Sew together - leave about 9 inches across for the neck and 8 inches for each arm.

This is the shirt that I mostly made the first weekend of the Maryland Home and Garden show which is why I'm calling this my Garden Party Shirt. I'm always making something when I have shows. I always try to do a pattern that's not too complicated because I'm aways starting and stopping. Inevitably I find an issue and have to frog a few rows. Since I had just done this stitch for the Ombre Coat it was in by brain and easy to do, but I still ended up frogging a few times.

This shirt came out really cute. I intentionally made it a little shorter because the last time I used this yarn it stretched a lot. This is just a little less than one skein of Quitness by Briar Rose Fibers. This yarn is a heavy lace weight and is approximately 650 yards and I used a 4.5mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch




Panels - make 2

Cast on 60
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 2: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 3-30: repeat row 2
Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.





Sew the panels together leaving 9 inches for the neck and 7 for the arms. I also left the bottom 2 inches open. You can choose to have the shells facing up or down, but make sure both panels are facing the same direction.

Now for the sleeves

Row 1: ch 3, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 2: Reverse direction. ch 3, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 3-10: repeat row 2 Row 11: Reverse direction. Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a sl st.