This yarn is so gorgeous it almost didn't need a pattern at all. It is "Textured" Handpsun Yarn from Windsong Farm. It's only about 18 yards. I hesitate to even call this a pattern since it's so simple, but it did take me a bit to figure out what I wanted to do with this yarn so maybe it helps someone else.


I used a 12 mm hook and chained 40. That felt like the right length that if I needed to loop it twice I could, but I could also just wear it as a necklace.

Row 1: join the loop using a slip stitch making sure that there are no twists. *Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, sc. Repeat from * slip stitch to join.
Row 2: *ch 3, sc in the chain space. Repeat from *. This will not make it all the way around. Weave in when you run out of yarn.

You'll see in the picture above that there is clearly a place where there is an extra row. When you double loop it (below) then I think it really pops. When you're done pull out the extra hangy bits that got caught up as you were crocheting. I feel like this will lay really nicely over a long sleeve shirt, once again looking forward to colder weather for this.




Also, don't forget about the Bel Air Festival for the Arts tomorrow Sunday September 18th. I'm in booth 220.

How cute did these wine stoppers come out?! I'm so happy that I got these done before the Bel Air Festival for the Arts which is this Sunday September 18th. I'll be at booth 220 which looks like it's right in the middle. This is the first of the juried art fairs that I'm doing over the next couple of months.


These gnomes have been waiting for their stoppers for a while. I did these while we were up at the cabin and the hardest thing was getting them to stay upright while they were drying. They fell over a few times before I found a way to prop them up. I need Craig to make me a wine stopper holder so I can display them standing up.

I don't know that I've ever made anything before where I get it to the kiln and go - hmm is this going to be too big? When I was doing this last bisque I had that moment when I was looking at this elephant ear piece. Ultimately I think this is going to be a bird bath, but I still have a few things to figure out. This just fit on the kiln shelf and I was super careful not to hit the sides while placing it inside.

The sides and back of this sweater are made all in one piece. It makes for really nice panels in the front that you can wrap around yourself. We went up to Chaumont for the holiday weekend and the weather was chilly so I got to wear this sweater earlier than I thought I would. I think I might add some buttons so that when it gets real cold it will stay in place.

I did a good amount of frogging working out this sweater. When I make a shirt or sweater to sew I usually aim for the back to be about 23-24 inches. I did that with this sweater and found that I was swimming in it. Since it's made all in once piece it was closer to 14 inches when it felt right. I'm not entirely sure why that is, but the sweater fits great so I'm going with it. I'll ponder that more and see if I can come up with a reason why it's true.

This pattern uses 4 skeins of Yowsa from Miss Babs in Bewitching for about 2200 yards of yarn.


This pattern uses a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches used:
ch - chain
sl - slip stitch
sk - skip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
bobble - yarn over, pull a stitch through, yarn over, pull a stitch through, yarn over, pull all the stitches through (7 loops at once)
X - skip a stitch, dc, go back to the stitch you skipped and behind your new stitch dc
picot - sc, ch 3, sc into the right side of your sc


ch 119
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, ch, sk - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 2-5: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 6: ch 3, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across. hdc in the last stitch
Row 7-16: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 17: ch 2, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across. hdc in the last stitch
Row 18: - 27: ch 1, 2 sc in the space, sk - all the way across.
Row 28: ch 3, X stitch - all the way across. dc in the last stitch
Row 29-37: ch 2 hdc all the way across
Row 38: ch 2, hdc in the first 22 stitches, ch 22 (we are making the first arm opening here), sk stitches 23-30, hdc in the 40th stitch and all the way to the end. Option: if you want to create a flap between the front panel and the back panel then instead of going to the end ch 10 at the end and skip the last 10 stitches
Row 39: ch 3, X stitch - all the way across. dc in the last stitch
Row 40-44: ch 2, hdc all the way across
Row 45: ch 3, X stitch - all the way across. dc in the last stitch
Row 46: ch 2, sk, sc, ch, sk - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 47-50: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 51: ch 3, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across. hdc in the last stitch
Row 52-56: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 57: ch 3, X stitch - all the way across. dc in the last stitch
Row 58-62: ch 2, hdc all the way across
Row 63: ch 3, X stitch - all the way across. dc in the last stitch
Row 64: ch 2, hdc in the first 22 stitches, ch 22 (we are making the first arm opening here), sk stitches 23-30, hdc in the 40th stitch and all the way to the end. Option: if you want to create a flap between the front panel and the back panel then instead of going to the end ch 10 at the end and skip the last 10 stitches
Row 65-73: ch 2, hdc all the way across
Row 74: ch 3, X stitch - all the way across. dc in the last stitch
Row 75-84: ch 1, 2 sc, sk - all the way across.
Row 85: ch 2, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across. hdc in the last stitch
Row 86-95: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 96: ch 2, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across. hdc in the last stitch
Row 97-101: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc





This will give you your back and front panels. The front panels will drape nicely down. I decided that this needed a border all the way around. Row 1: start at the bottom right edge. ch 2 bobble, ch. When you get to the corners - 2 hdc in the corner stitch, ch 2, 2 hdc in the corner stitch. You'll end on a corner, but only need to do 1 hdc since your ch 2 will cound as the second hdc. Join via a slip stitch to the ch 2. Row 2: ch 1, sc, picot in the ch between the bobbles, sc into the bobble. When you get to the corners - sc into the first hdc, 2 sc into the second hdc, ch 2, 2 sc into the 1st hdc on the other side of the corner, sc into the second hdc. Then keep going with your picots. Slip stitch to join and then tie off




I decided I wanted to make my sleeves end about 3 inches back from my wrist. If you want your sleeves longer or shorter just add in a few rows.
Row 1: starting at the bottom of the armhole (the underarm section) ch 2, hdc around, sl stitch to join. I picked up 45 stitches. The exact number doesn't matter to me as long as it doesn't look like I have any holes and I pick up the same number on the second sleeve. Row 2-3: ch 2, hdc around, sl stitch to join.
Row 4-10: ch 2, hdc around, in the last 2 stitches hdc together, sl stitch to join
Row 11: ch 3, X stitch - all the way across , sl stitch to join
Row 12-16: ch, sc into the chain stitch, sk stitch, 2 sc. Repeat until the end, sl stitch to join
Row 17: ch 2, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across, sl stitch to join
Row 18-22: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across, sl stitch to join
Row 23: ch 2, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across, sl stitch to join
Row 24: ch 1, picot in the ch between the bobbles, sc into the bobble - all the way across, sl stich to join and tie off

I'm not super careful about counting my stiches in the arms. I know I want it rather wide on the top and then the same width for the forearms. If you want looser or tighter arms play with the number of stitches.






Pockets (make 2): ch 20
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, ch, sk - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 2-10: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc
Row 11: ch 3, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across. hdc in the last stitch
Row 12-21: ch 2, sc in the chain space, ch - all the way across. End on a sc

Turn so now your side becomes the top.
Top Row 1: ch 2, bobble in the chain space, ch - all the way across, sl stitch to join (I had 13 bobbles)
Top Row 2: ch 1, picot in the ch between the bobbles, sc into the bobble - all the way across, sc in the last stitch and tie off

Sew on the pockets on the front panel just above where the arms end. Remember the sweater will stretch.

I'm loving my flower art piece. I wasn't sure how it would come out, but it's awesome. I'm also really please with how the nutcracker came out - he's entirely designer liner and then just a coat of clear. Definitely going to do more of this.
I broke my second cannister. I think it was just suction holding it together, but when it popped open it also closed and then broke. Not sure if I like the color anyway. Need to make more cannisters.

Bottom is Amaco Tangelo x2 Poppy Sides are Amaco Poppy Weeping Plum x2	Amaco Weeping Plum x3
Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Mayco Lavender Mist x3 Muddy Waters x2 Various Stroke and Coats	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Rasberry Lavender Mist x3 Muddy Waters x2 Various Stroke and Coats
Laguna 60 Inside Amaco Storm x3 Outside Honey Flux x2 Top to Bottom - Ancient Copper x2, Smokey Merlot x2, Blue Rutile x2	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Laguna Power Turquoise x3 Mayco Night Moth x2 Various Stroke and Coats
Laguna 66 Amaco Dark Green x3 Verte Luster x2	Laguna 66 Coyote Peacock Green x3 Turquoise Lake x2
Laguna 66 Kentucky Mudworks Foxglove x3 Dark Flux x2	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Amaco Honey Flux x3 Blue Rutile x2
Mayco Tuxedo x3, Jack O Lantern x3 2167 Clear	Left: Laguna 60 Amaco Tangelo x3 Mayco Sour Apple x3 Mayco Java Bean x3 Middle Left: Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Amaco Tangelo x3 Middle Right:Laguna 60 Amaco Blue Rutile Right: Laguna 60 Amaco Deep Sienna Speckle x3 Mayco Just Froggy Sour Apple Amaco Ancient Copper
Amaco Tangelo x3 Deep Sienna Speckle x2 wiped back	Macyo Stroke and Coat Sunkissed, Jack O Lantern, Just Froggy, Java Bean, Fruit of the Vine, Hot Tamale 2167 Clear
Laguna 60 Kentucky Mudworks Hydra x3 Triton x2 Mayco Light Flux	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Hillbilly Blues
Amaco Glacier x3	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Coyote Pam's Blue
Laguna 60 Deep Sea x3 Seaweed x2	Laguna 60 Mayco Green Underglaze and Designer Liners 2167 Clear
Laguna 60 Mayco Designer Liners 2167 Clear	Laguna 60 Mayco Designer Liners 2167 Clear
Laguna 60 Kentucky Mudworks Dandelion	Laguna 60 Black underglaze wiped back Mayco Cotton Tail Hot Tamale 2167 Clear
Clayscapes Oribe 2-3 coats brushed	Clayscapes Nutmeg two coats on the left and three on the right
Amaco Rainforest x3	Amaco Honey Flux x3 Rainforest x2

Just a reminder to start - I will be at the Belle Aire Market this Sunday September 11th. Also next Sunday September 18th I'll be at the Bel Air Festival for the Arts. Both are local to me in Bel Air, MD.

I'm super behind getting this up. I unloaded the last kiln the morning before I flew to Orlando. Then I immediately reloaded the kiln and started it up before heading to the airport. The upside was that when I got home it was ready to unload. The next day we drove up to Chaumont. It was an exhausting week, but there's a lot of goodness in this kiln.

I still have full shelves that need bisque, but I'm getting close to getting through the backup created when the kiln was down.

This is the most I've ever run the kiln in a week. I think the electric bill is going to be big. I did an empty run, glaze, 3 bisque, and then 2 more glaze.