Been travelling for work this week, but i kicked off a bisque kiln before I left. I'm actually on a plane right now. My husband knows how antsy I get about seeing the kiln and sent me an update while I was away.

I made this vase when I was at the workshop with Michael Harbridge. It's an earthenware clay which is why it was firef with thr bisque. This vase is what I based the wine chiller off of. The glazes are the same. I do really like this vase, but I think I liked it on the speckled clay better.

I have made a lot of mugs in the last couple of months. At the end of last year, I made a plan for what I wanted to make this year. The spring is slower for shows than the fall so I've really front loaded the year with making. This doesn't mean that I don't sometimes veer off and spend a day in my studio making things that aren't on the list, but there is a list and I do get satisfaction wiping things on the list off the board. I get a second thrill when I update my tracking spreadsheet and that goes to 0 and I can figure out what the next set of things to do it. I'm sure that there are some artists who might read this and think that all of that sounds horrible, but for me it works.

Anyway back to mugs. So far this year I have made 135 mugs (I was able to find that out in my spreadsheet in 30 seconds :) and I feel like doing that many and doing them in batches of 12+ have really made me better. This is in addition to watching lots of videos especially on Clayshare and taking the cups workshop with Annie Crietzberg.




A few things that have been key for me as I look at what I think are the best set of mugs I've made. First, not messing with the rims until the clay is nearing leather hard has been a game changer. I learned that from Annie's process. The rims stay so much more in the round when I don't try do to anything with them while they are wet. I think waiting until the clay is less wet to shape them has also helped a lot. I add my texture (not on these bugs but on others), cut them to size, and then leave them flat until the clay isn't as floppy. Bellying them out slower has also been a game changer. I use a banding wheel and I'll go around 8-10 times to belly vs trying to do too much at once. Last, I think having a specific practice around going back to each and every mug to shape and clean them up the day after I've made them steps up the game.

By no means am I done learning. I hope that in another year my mugs will look even better.




Speaking of things that need to look better - my bowls. I specifically changed recently to make bowls that would stack better so it would be easy to transport. I also really like the "ramen" bowl shape. However, it's very different making something that starts as a cone vs something that starts as a cylinder. I don't sell nearly as many bowls, so I don't make as many, but I am trying to the practice in.

I love the way grape leaves imprint on the white clay. I've been wanting to make more for a while, but had to wait for my grape plants to actually start growing again.

I've just switched back over from the Laguna 60 Clay to the Bmix. Every time I work with a clay I think - I love this clay I could just work in one clay body. Then I switch and I feel the same way about the next clay. Then I end up staying with all 3.

I travelled for work every week in April. I realized while I was travelling that all my sweaters are colorful, on purpose because I like color, but I didn't have a simple black sweater that I could pack in my bag and wear multiple days. I mean I do have multiple of those from back in the day, but none that I had made myself. I made sure to buy black yarn at the Maryland Sheep and Wool for that exact purpose.

This yarn is Kashmir by Fiber Optic Yarn in Morticia which is a fingering weight yarn and comes in skeins of 420 yards. I've used this yarn before in other colors and love how soft it is. It's made of 80% merino wool and I often feel like merino wool is magic because it's somehow warm when it's cold, but also cool when its warm and you just need a light cover up.




This sweater took me a while because this stitch is intricate. There were more than a few times when I had to frog back a row to fix things. Due to that - I lost track of exactly how many stitches I cast on for the back panel and sides. I *think* it was 74 for the back and 34 for the panels, but I'm not sure. This does follow the design of most of my sweaters - back panel, 2 side panels, sew them together, add the sleeves, flip inside out, do a collar, and finally add pockets.




Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st - skip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
dc2tog - double crochet 2 together
shell - dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc (6 dc with ch in between all in the same stitch)
bobble - yarn over, insert hook into the stitch and pull up, yarn over and draw up a loop, draw through 2 loops - do this 3 times then yarn over and draw through 4 loops on the hook






This stitch is called sprouts and it's done in multiples of 10 + 4.

Row 1: dc in the 4th ch from the hook ch 1, dc in the same stitch, ch 1, dc in the same stitch again, ch 1, * sk 3 st, sc in the next stitch, ch 3, sk st, sc in the next stitch, sk 3 st**, shell in the next ch. Repeat from * across endding at **, in the last stitch do half a shell - dc, ch, dc, ch, dc.
Row 2: ch 2, dc in the same dc, * ch3, sc in the next ch 1 space, ch 2, sc in the second ch space of the shell, ch 3**, bobble in the third chain space of the shell, ch 3, sc, in the fourth chain space of the shell, ch 2, sc in the next sc after the bobble. Repeat from * across ending with **. Dc2tog in the last chain
Row 3: Ch 3, * sc in the next ch 3 space, sk next ch 2 space, shell in the next ch 3 space, sk next ch 2 space, sc in the next ch 3 space**, ch 3, sk the bobble, sc in the next ch 3 space. Repeat from * across ending at **. ch 1, hdc in the last ch.
Row 4: Ch 3, sc in the next ch 1 sp, * ch 2, sc in the second ch space of the shell, ch 3, bobble in the third chain space of the shell, ch 3, sc, in the fourth chain space of the shell, sc in the next sc, ch 2**, sc in the next sc, ch 3, sc in the next sc. Repeat from * across stopping at **. Sc, ch1, hdc all in in the last chain Row 5: Ch 4, dc ch dc in the starting stitch, * sk in the next ch 2 space before the bobble, ch 3, sc in ch space after the bobble**, shell in the next ch 3 space. Repeat from * ending at **. In the last ch - dc, ch, dc, ch, dc (half a shell)
Rep rows 2-5 until you have your desired length.

Happy early 4th of July!!

I don't know why napkins have been on my mind lately, but they have. Debi from De La Designs did a demo on Clayshre recently with one of these and the other I saw somewhere and thought - I could do that but with leaves.

The first is a little tray with the napkin holder. Keep all your condiments neat in the middle of the table. I used my new texture mat on this in conjunction with a rolling pin.




I used cutters from De La Designs for both the tray and the upright pieces plus a gr form. I used the smallest of the rounded rectangle set.

I have been searching for some good quatrefoil texture for a few months. I found a roller on Etsy, but it was in millimeters and I didn't think to convert it to inches (yes, dumb American moment). It was meant for polymer clay and was tiny. The texture was good (it was on one of the angels and trees with birds a couple of kilns ago), but tiny.

I found a piece of glass on Etsy a few weeks ago that was the perfect texture, but first - glass in the studio yuck. Second, the shipping for it was crazy expensive (probably because it's glass). I mentioned it to my pottery bff Heather who in a couple of days found the same texture on a matt on Amazon!

I noticed that the supplier for this was in NY and found their web site and ended up buying some other things as well. They are a cake supply place called NY Cake.

While making this I decided to try a dart because I had been thinking about those. I think it makes the pitcher look a little sassy. Not entirely sure I like the dart with the separate spout. It makes it look sassy and pouty.